FACE TO FACE WITH CHEF ÁNGEL LEÓN…

Margaux:   Culinary Philosophy ?

A.L.  The product and no chemicals.  I specialise in the natural.

Margaux:   Who had been or were your mentors ?

A.L.   The late Chef Joël  Robuchon at the Three Michelin Star Restaurant L´ Atelier, Paris, where I worked for seven years and for three years,  at La Casa de Templo, in Toledo where I was learning about the historic roots of Spanish Culture including the Sefardic Epicurism  and the Moorish Arabic Cuisines.

Margaux:   The Sea ?

A.L.   I have always had an obsession with the sea and I enjoy fishing with my dad, cleaning, slicing and preparing fish, shellfish and seafoods of all types.

Margaux:  Do you fish for your Restaurant Aponiente ?

A.L.  Yes I do, however, I am also very community minded and I coach crews on ships and small fishing vessels who are working for 15 Euros hourly.  I have taken 30 day fishing excursions bringing in 50 tons of wild fresh fish. I have also wanted to mention, that have sourced fish in Cádiz for 4 Euros a kilo, and in The Madrid Capital, these species could sell for 20 to 40 Euros a kilo.

Margaux:  I believe you would do quite well in politics !  What exactly are you doing with Plankton ?

A.L.   Firstly, Plankton groves or plantations. I filter 17.000 litres of water.  The Omega 3 content is the most numerous of all edible species and / or plant life.  Plankton is the cellular origin of all.

Margaux:   Do you have any research investigation projects scheduled for 2019 – 2020 ?

A.L.  I have been in the process of a joint venture, in which we are collaborating on a baby foodline with a Japanese Manufacturer.

Margaux:  And your dream trip ?

A.L.  To lose myself in the Alaskan Arctic Coast on a boat.

Margaux:  Tell us about one of your books.

A.L.  My first book, MAR CONTRA CORRIENTE,  which signifies THE SEA AGAINST THE CURRENT, was not a run of the mill recipe book.  This is a book that came from passion and fully living up to the challenges of the title.

Margaux:  Tell us about your 1st recipe ..

A.L.  My first recipe prepared at home was a caramel custard dessert. My mother was livid with me about the tremendous mess I made in her kitchen.  I was sort of a “Dennis the Menace” !

Margaux:  Last but not least, music in the kitchen while working ?

Ángel:  Yes, instrumental Jazz and instrumental Flamenco. “I am also a believer in the stillness, is the power”…

East of Croatia in Bulgaria, the heart of the Balkan Peninsula, since ancient times, cheese has been made mainly of sheep and goats. What distinguishes the dairy delicacy made here by everyone else in the world and lends it a lasting taste is Lactobacillus bulgaricus. The bacterium is found freely in the nature of Bulgaria. It feeds on lactose and produces lactic acid, thanks to which the milk is stored, with the help of which the famous Bulgarian yogurt is produced.

After The World War II, under the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947, Bulgaria was obliged to pay Greece $ 45 million, the current equivalent of which exceeds half a billion dollars in reparations. By the end of 1964, Bulgaria had paid up to the last cent that huge sum in cheese and lamb. Due to this, a huge amount of Bulgarian cheese is sold on the international market as Feta. The difference between cheeses is huge in texture and taste. The original Greek Feta is made from goat’s milk and is soft.

The traditional Bulgarian cheeses are:
White brined cheese made from cows, sheep, goats, buffalo and mixed milk. It is characteristic for it that the ripening period takes place in brine (water and sea salt).

Cashcaval is a kind of yellow hard cheese that has undergone a process of pre-ripening – chederisatsia. It is made from sheep or cow’s milk or a mixture. Minimum ripening period is about 60 days. A distinction should be made between Bulgarian yellow cheese – cashcaval, and yellow cheeses known in Europe.

One of the forgotten treasures of Bulgaria, which in its authentic brew is made only at home, but has excellent taste and can last for years thanks only to salt and the local bacteria is Krokmach or Katak. It is made from sheep’s milk boiled in a water bath only in July, August and early September. Served with red roasted pepper and leaves unique memories of the palate.

Another forgotten treasure, but in the top twenty of Europe, is the Green Cheese of Cherni Vit / Central Stara Planina /. It has recently undergone its Renaissance thanks to Mr. Tsvetan Dimitrov, who revived the tradition of this one-of-a-kind delicacy. It is prepared from the milk of 2 local breeds of sheep – Teteven and Karakachan, in a certain period of the year. Thanks to one of the three European molds – Balkan and local bacteria is born something that can not be described, just to try.

One example of this, is how Chef Joan has revitalised ancient ingredients such as edible metallic foil papers of gold, silver and copper, which are said to lower cholesterol and date back to The Persian Empire, in the 6th century.

A visit to EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA, which is set in a stone manor townhouse nestled amongst lush micro climate herbal and historical gardens, requires a willingness to suspend the antiquated notion that eating is a fundamental of life, something we do in order to survive.  There is little about a lunch or dinner at EL CELLER DE CAN ROCA that can be compared to any notion that we eat to live.

INTERVIEW WITH CHEF JOAN ROCA, FACE TO FACE…

Margaux:   While lots of restaurants can turn out a good meal or two, few can match the Roca Brothers and their colossal portfolio of of sublime finesse and wines.  What has led to your success today.

J.R.    Firstly, our relocation in 2010, has definitely marked our turning point and furthermore, the merging of gastronomic traditions with Catalan and Mediterranean cuisines coupled with state of the art advanced technology.

Margaux:   Please tell our readers, about your mentors.

J.R.   Firstly, I worked with the late Chef Santi Santamaria in 1988. Then in 1989, I worked with Ferràn Adrià at the former El Bulli in Las Rosas, Girona. In 1992, I was doing another apprenticeship under the coaching of Three Michelin Star Chef, Georges Blanc in Vonnas, France. These internships were the keys to my inaugurating a new beginning as a Chef.

Margaux:  Could you tell us about a preferred method of preparation that you employ?

J.R.   The Sous Vide, a process in French which denotes, “under vacuum”. It involves vacuum packing a food product in a plastic like baggie and cooking the food at a lower temperature  than normal at an extended time and then, quickly cooling the food. The advantages are that the Chef or Home Gourmet receives less shrinkage of the raw materials and the product is moister, and higher volumes of food can be prepared much quicker.  The method was originally used during The Persian Empire without the plastic however, enclosed and wrapped in textiles.

Margaux:  I am aware that you had travelled several times to Japan.

J.R.  Firstly, the Kai Seiki gastronomic route in Kyoto, has strongly influenced our art of plating. KAI means breast and SEIKI translates to pebbles or stones.  Historical Kyoto has maintained its ancient gastronomic traditions which were started by Medieval Buddhist Monks who would carry servings of food in their pockets for long journies or be served platters of assorted types of rice, sashimi, marine pickles and Udon Noodles.

This has become Japan´s renovated evolutionary Tapas movement in the 21st century. To Clarify, ROCA in Spanish means STONE. Thus, when possible, the implementing of three stones, for the 3 Roca Brothers is utilised in plating up our dishes.  Furthermore, we utilise a savory ingredient, a sweet, a semi sweet, a bitter, a sour and an aromatic in uncountable courses and starters.  In France and at El Bulli, we had learnt to sprinkle, drizzle, to create foams of all textures and to handle the garnishing and dressing as if the porcelain were a canvas painting.

Margaux:   Surrealism or the Provençal School of painting inspirations ?

J.R.   Another great inspiration has always been the French Impressionists, Miró, Dali, Picasso and the Asian Schools of Painting, very much so.

Margaux:  Gastronomic focused travel.

J.R.   Since, we have travelled to Japan and China several times, and to Peru, Columbia and Mexico, in 2014, we are planning the rest of the Americas & Caribbean and The Nordic Countries between 2019 and 2020.

Margaux:
Tell us about the creation of Extraordinary Food & Wine Venezia event.

Fausto: The event was born for the need to stand out in the eno gastronomic field from the mass of exhibitors and the existing fairs in the sector.  We have created a unique and elegant event, where exhibitors have been able to communicate with people interested in their products, without rush in an enchantingly harmonious setting, creating a privileged relationship, without neglecting the artistic side, since I consider the art producers themselves not just food or wine.

Margaux:
Why the choice of Ca Zanardi, an 18th century Venetian palace for the Extraordinary Food & Wine event in 2018 and The Hotel Monaco, Grand Canal, San Marco in 2019 and 2020 ?

Fausto:  Firstly, I chose Venice and in particular Ca ‘Zanardi because it has been the home to the art collateral of the Venice Biennale of which I am the director. I wanted a unique and elegant location in the heart of the most beautiful city in the world like the to exhibit some of the best products in the world.  Due to the non-central location, I had decided in 2019, to have a more central and easily accessible location, yet maintaining the enigmatic, enchantment of Renaissance Venice right on the Grand Canal, and its fascinating surroundings.

Margaux:
Tell us about your dreams, your food and wine projects and the journey you want to take.

Fausto: I do not live by dreams alone, however, from reality for which the project shall continue, to go on with more and more selected products, I am also, considering to present Extraordinary around the world to make it clear that good food and wine is an art.

Margaux:
Are you going to publish any books in the near future?

Fausto: I published a book 20 years ago: “The Design of Taste in the Taste of Design”, an absolute and unique thing that spoke of the quintessence of marketing, presented also in London, so even today it is a must read for the sector, and maybe I shall write another one. All is possible we’ll see!

Margaux:
When is the 2020 Extraordinary Food & Wine Event?

January 19th, 20th and 21st, we shall be celebrating our 3rd Anniversary Edition of Extraordinary Food & Wine at the Hotel Monaco, Grand Canal, San Marco.

Margaux: Last but not least, could you tell us what you do professionally?

Fausto: Professionally I work in strategic marketing around the world and I am an artist and I have  am exhibited my works all over the world.  I have dedicated books, magazine articles and presented uncountable artworks in galleries and museums and additionally have been awarded amongst the 50 most important photographers in the world.  I am the director of the collateral of the Venice Biennale and much more.

Margaux:   Tell us, what or who were the catalysts, that inspired you to enter into the world of Salami and Charcuterie.

Federico: The Toniolo’s family has a long tradition in butcher’s trade started in the early 1900s from grandfather Antonio. In 1968 the young grandson Antonio Toniolo founded Salumificio Verza, adopting his family’s nickname for the company. So there are two Antonio in our family history that have inspired us to enter and continue this Charcuterie tradition.

Margaux:   Could you please the readers, about the latest products that you have for the incoming Christmas Season ?

Federico: on 21^st September we have had the official presentation of our new product “Il Cengio”, a cured meat product dedicated to our territory, with a high level of craftsmanship. This hand made product is composed from seven different anatomical meat cuts: shoulder, bacon, leg, jowl, lard, loin and neck.

Margaux:   If money were not an issue,  what is your eno – gastronomic dream trip and why  ?

Federico: Probably I’m telling you a banality but my eno-gastronomic dream trip would be a trip through Italy, from north to south, to discover all the speciality, the micro production, the typical products of each region and rarities scattered over the territory. If money were not an issue I hope that time was not an issue too.

Margaux:  We met in January 2019, at the Extraordinary Food & Wine Trade Fair, in Venice. I was very impressed with your “AURUM” and the specialised lamp in which you use to provide a little heat to this luxurious delicacy.  Can you give us some more details about this delicacy and the lamps ?

Federico: “ Emotion I “ with black truffle and 23k. edible gold is the first product of our Aurum line. This cured meat product is something special, it’s completely hand made, patent protected and customizable. About customizations, we have already planned some variants for ex. without truffle or with white truffle but in Aurum line anything can happen. Here we don’t talk only about taste, our goal is to bring the person to feel unique, an “Emotion People”. The customer is a central part of the development of his “Emotion One” that can be made even more exclusive through all the ingredients that customer wants; in this way we can really make a product unique in the world.  The box of the product, which is an integral part of EMOZIONE I, has been designed to enhance the characteristics of the product and to involve the consumer emotionally. On opening the box, the product is wrapped by the led light coming from the backlit plexiglass board on which EMOZIONE I lays and which acts as a cutting board.

The light makes all the gold particles on the surface of the product stand out and shine. With EMOZIONE I, the aim is to create an experience that goes beyond just the taste, but that also involves the senses such as touch and sight in order to reach the heart and mind too.

Margaux:  What are your professional goals for 2020 ?

Federico: Our professional goal for 2020 is to introduce “Emotion I” and the Aurum line into Japanese market.

Margaux:   I see you also have a retail gourmet boutique.  What products do you sell at the shop  ?

Federico: In our shop we sell our fresh and cured meat products but also we select the best fresh meat of beef, veal and chicken; our butchers make many meat preparation ready to use in brine, moisturized with olive oil and herbs or vacuum packed with our spice mix but on request they prepared also filled roasts or other meat preparation at the moment following the customer’s needs.

Margaux:  Which wines do you suggest that would pair the best with your products ?

Federico: For the new product “Il Cengio” we suggest a fruity white still wine as Vespaiolo, Lugana or Monferrato; For Emotion I with black truffle we suggest a red wine like: Amarone, Brunello di Montalcino, Sagrantino di Montefalco, Bordeaux and Saint Emilion.

Margaux:   Last but not least, can you provide us with a background history of the company ?

Federico:  The origins of Salumificio Verza date back to the early 1900s, when legendary grandfather Antonio, known as “Verza”, used to butcher cattle and pigs bred in the valley. This ancestor would preserve the meat in a cave filled with the snow and ice that he himself would collect on his cart from up on the Fiorentini highlands. Then using this same means of transport, he would travel around the nearby villages selling his products to his customers. Following this family tradition in the butcher’s trade which began in Velo d’Astico, in 1968 the young Antonio Toniolo founded Salumificio Verza, adopting his family’s nickname for the company.

Today Verza Salumi is a business reality, resulting from a well-known brand, and in all these years it has known how to maintain the same passion, tradition and quality of its cured meat products thanks to a careful selection of the meat, the use of natural casings, herbs, natural spices and, above all, a slow maturing technique.

These are the values and the philosophy that have been handed down to us and that we, in our turn, wish to hand down to future generations.

Margaux:   When we were at Extraordinary Food and Wine 2018, in Venice, you had given me a vinegar tasting.  Can you tell our readers, about the different vinegars that you produce, their uses and where you sell them ?  Do you have an online shop ?

Valerio: High quality handcrafted products, using only local raw materials without artificially forcing refinement times which can vary from 50 months of the youngest product to over 50 years for Family Reserves.

The limited quantities bottled annually are synonymous with absolute craftsmanship, the pursuit of product perfection without getting involved with modernity and fashions.

The Reggiana tradition of balsamic vinegar has been recognized since 1040, where at the court of Matilde di Canossa there were the presence of some casks of this precious condiment.

We are proud to be producer partners of the CONSORTIUM FOR THE PROTECTION OF TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR FROM REGGIO EMILIA, where we confer our best reserves that will be bottled in the 3 classic labels, ARAGOSTA LABEL (minimum 12 years of aging), SILVER LABEL (about 20 years of aging) and our GOLD LABEL EXTRAVECCHIO (over 25 years of aging)

We produce in larger quantities balsamic dressings with aging of 50 months or 72 months for daily use in combination with cooked or raw vegetables, or cheese and meat.

The most refined vinegars are used exclusively, a few drops of product can enhance the taste of the dish! We don’t think only of the classic combinations with Parmigiano Reggiano or strawberries, an omelette or a risotto are also a great match, as well as red fruit. I love strawberries and raspberries with our Extravecchio !!! The younger products lend themselves to short cooking, to flavor roasts and braised, great dishes of local cuisine.

Just last week I made arrangements with an image and web agency, with whom we started talking about e-commerce. Another goal for 2020, in order to allow customers who visit us to buy their favorite balsamic vinegar at any time!

Margaux:   What interests most people today are the culinary uses of a product.  What are some of the uses of your balsamic vinegars ?

Valerio:   Our products are designed for daily use, salad and vegetables for our younger balsamic, shellfish and important meat for the most refined. The balsamic lover is a person who would put him anywhere, even outside the usual patterns or historical combinations. And the various balsamic vinegars lend themselves very well to these improvisations!

Margaux:   Of course, we do not expect you to give away your secrets, however, just very briefly,  how is the balsamic vinegar aged and are there any other ingredients added to the process ?

Valerio:   Only 3 ingredients: Cooked must of local grapes, the slow passing of the seasons… the cold winters and the torrid summers, barrels of different wood essences.

There are no secrets, the top floor of the vinegar factory (the environment most sensitive to temperature changes) completes the work.

Ah, I forgot …

So much patience, to get a balsamic of good viscosity and ample bouquet you need at least 15 years of aging, 15 years of care on the part of the conductor and 15 passages in barrels of different capacities and wood essences (oak, cherry, juniper, chestnut) to capture of each of them the particularities and have a complete olfactory and tasting bouquet

Margaux:  If money were not a problem, tell us about your gastronomic dream trip and why you would select this destination.

I have traveled the world very little, I admit that I still have some difficulties with fear of flying and unfortunately my spare time is also scarce. However, I promised my family that the future will certainly be more “eventful”.

I wouldn’t want to be biased or too tied to the territory.  However, when it comes to gastronomy I think of our region, Emilia Romagna as a land of traditions and its dishes are famous, all over the world! I’m imagining an ideal tour in these areas.  I have friends who produce fantastic wines and not just Lambrusco, and we both know Flos, Cecilia Lanzani and Denis Beggi, who have a small local saffron cultivation company of the highest quality. And then the first fruits! Emilia is experiencing a Renaissance or comeback, with its  variety of products, exceptional raw materials, and special people who know how to create unique excellences in the world!

MARGAUX: What or who, inspired you to study photography ?

Gigi: I only approached photography when, after traveling with friends in Northern Europe, at the age of twenty, I felt the need to stop my emotions with images. My older brother gave me, his first reflex (Yashica FX3), and from there I started studying and doing some courses with professionals from Parma. I made my first travel report (worthy of the name) in Peru in 2002, in the last few years I have dedicated my photo a lot to my land and its traditions.

MARGAUX:In the past couple of years you have travelled extensively. Iceland, Mississippi´s Blues Route and Turkey. What are your future trips for 2019 – 2020 ?

Gigi: I have just returned from a trip to Naples, a very interesting city all points of view, but in the fall I will go to visit Colombia, a magnificent country still little known by mass tourism.

MARGAUX:What subjects inspire you most, to take photographs of ?

Gigi: I love meeting people: their history and life in their everyday life, telling a place through its landscapes and the people who live it are my inspiration.

MARGAUX:I have also followed your Photography Courses and what is most fulfilling in training and teaching for you ? Could your provide a schedule of some of your Autumn Courses ?

Gigi: For some years now I have started doing workshops and training courses, it is nice to pass on your passion to others and to receive energy from others to continue the activity, in October I plan a couple of Workshops on the Big River and a couple of photography courses for beginners, I manage the training activity from mid-October to the beginning of December.

MARGAUX:You are a master of landscaping, urban architecture, ancient buildings, food products, art of plating, wines and portraits. What captures your interest most when taking a photo ? Colors ? Expressions ? The product itself ? The admiration for a building ?

Gigi: I could enclose it all in a single noun EMOTION! I like to portray what excites my heart! It can be the colors, the shapes, the fatigue of man or the beauty in a form of art!

MARGAUX: Do you have plans on authoring any books ?

Gigi: I have already published several books, the last in order of time “Custodi del Tempo” is the result of research done in small country museums or even at the homes of collectors of objects of human ingenuity. I would like to re-edit “Verdi in the Mist” book sold out a few years ago, the book investigated the great Maestro Giuseppe Verdi, about the human aspect of the character, going to portray landscapes and places that inspired him in the composition of his works.

MARGAUX: We met at Extraordinary Food & Wine Fair 2019, and I see that you are the Official Photographer to the event and the Founder, Fausto Brozzi. What inspires you most about Venice and the event ?

Gigi: I think this event is really interesting and different from the many food fairs that are in Italy, being the official photographer gives me the opportunity to meet small producers and “have fun” taking pictures in the midst of so much good food !!

MARGAUX: If money were not an object, what is your gastronomic dream trip ?

Gigi: The dream is in the Australian continent, I think you know interesting because you can find all the food cultures. Another interesting trip certainly may be China, but the most beautiful journey to do is to leave and wander in our beautiful country (Italy) in search of small taverns where you can still taste the sincere tastes! Italy is the house of good food and good wine, in every village you can discover flavors that you didn’t think existed.

Margaux:   Firstly, where were you born and raised ?

Corrado: I was born in Cremona, in the northern side of Italy, but I grew up in Verona, Veneto, where I got my Degree in Medicine & Surgery and where I managed my private practice for many years.

Margaux:   What and who were the catalysts for your decisions to study medicine, which sector of medicine and then relocate to Capetown, South Africa ?

Corrado:  I did not decide to study medicine driven by a specific passion:  at that time I was more into literature and philosophy… At that time, I was specifically involved in oral surgery and oral implantology. In 2003, during a Congress in Cape Town, South Africa, I wondered if this city would have been a nice place to live and to make a radical change in my professional life. And it was. So I decided to move to Cape Town with my life partner, Natalia, and her child, Filippo, and I started becoming  involved in the tourism industry –  writing in my free time as much as I could. It was a very hectic, very energetic and satisfying period of my life.

Margaux:   Tell us about Unparalleled South African Tours .

Corrado: I’ve always been a traveller, so I decided to set up a Travel Company, Unparalleled South African Tours (Pty) Ltd, a tourism and travel consultancy company (Tour Operator) which  provides people wishing to experience South Africa for leisure and business with  personalised  travel services, strictly tailor made: consulting and travel planning, transfer from airport to accommodation, a wide, complete range of accommodation establishments (from B&B/guest house to luxurious lodges, villas or apartments), half or full day sight-seeing tours, tailor made tours, self-drive tours, business travel and business networking, car, motorcycle 4×4 hire, escorted, guided tours, off the beaten track tours with experienced guides and sensational safaris.

Margaux:   What has been the inspiration to pen three books in such a short time ?  I am aware that you have recently published two books and you are working on a third book also to be published in 2018.  Could you tell us briefly about the 3 books ?

Corrado: I started writing when I was a high school student, and I kept doing it for almost twenty years, but only when we moved to South Africa I realised that I would have liked doing it professionaly. The first book, “Cape Town” (Edizioni Polaris, Jan 2017), is a Guide about Cape Town and the Western Cape including many fictional stories narrating of many different people; “Oltre la vita felice” (Edizioni Polaris, Dec 2017) is a novel about  a trip made by a south african woman – a professional – after she looses her child, who died in a car crash; the third, which will be published by June 2018, is set in Italy during the years of terrorism (early ‘80s). All these books have been written in a ten-year period of time, but I decided to publish them only four years ago. At the moment, I write every day, on a regular basis, for three or four hours per day – I’m currently working on my next book, of which I prefer not to release any further detail until it will be on the way to be published.

Margaux:   Could you tell us about your latest projects for 2018 – 2019 ?

Corrado: I’m currently very busy writing and travelling to attend evening events, reading and presentations of my books in Italy, managed and planned by my Italian publishing company, “Casa Editrice Polaris”, and it takes a lot of time and energy. “Oltre la vita felice” and “Cape Town” will be translated into English by the end of 2018 and I’m communicating frequently with the professional translator who is in charge of it.

Hopefully I will probably complete my next book by the end of 2019/early 2020, and this is the main aim, I want to achieve by that time, my most important project.