RIDING THE CREST OF THE WAVES WITH THREE MICHELIN STARRED CHEF ÁNGEL LEÓN
RIDING THE CREST OF THE WAVES WITH THREE MICHELIN STARRED CHEF ÁNGEL LEÓN
By: Publisher & Journalist Margaux CintranoFounder of Beyond Taste, Oltre il Gusto Magazine
Translation By: Maurizio Pelli, Author, Co Publisher
Photo Copyright: Restaurant Aponiente, El Puerto de Santa Maria, Cádiz.
Cheese is mentioned in the Old Testament, but the earliest records of it are even more ancient. A legend tells how a merchant took a long journey through the desert. He took with him food and milk that he poured into dried sheep’s stomach. When he decided to quench his thirst, a trickle of water flowed out of his fur, and something nasty was glowing at the bottom. Sucks, but tasty – that’s how the merchant discovered the cheese.
Riding the crest of the waves with a totally evolutionary vanguard cuisine offering an experience, he entitles “calm gastronomy” is one of a kind Chef Ángel León.
At his Puerto de Santa Maria Restaurant Aponiente, Chef Ángel has conjured up an epicurism with the enchantment of the world under the sea. He has proven himself a master investigator of Plankton, marine lettuces and algaes, which he filters in his own concoctions and gastronomic gadgets. Additionally, he is an expert in fish, shellfish and seafoods and their preparation. Furthermore, he invented Clarimax for clarifying liquid ingredients to create transparent consommés and utilises olive pits in place of carbon for braising, grilling an barbecuing on open flame.
Chef León´s pure Andalucian hedonism has brought him uncountable awards at Madrid Fusion and on Canal Cocina T.V. His father, a medical doctor and researcher coupled with his medical doctor mother have instilled in him the investigative nature he possesses.
Back in 2010, his research project at the University of Cádiz derived in the development of the state of the art Clarimax, a kitchen machine constructed by JP SELECTA, in Barcelona. Whether coaching, cooking, or fishing, Chef Ángel is detailed oriented and a perfectionist. His inspiration, inventiveness and “the product” culinary philosophy has enabled him to dazzle diners with his dramatically provocative presentations at your table. His extraordinary vanguard culinary methodology, unique fresh sustainable or bio ingredients and his enrapturing touches from his home land all provide the most incredible dining experience one can ever have in Cádiz, Andalusia…
FACE TO FACE WITH CHEF ÁNGEL LEÓN…
Margaux: Culinary Philosophy ?
A.L. The product and no chemicals. I specialise in the natural.
Margaux: Who had been or were your mentors ?
A.L. The late Chef Joël Robuchon at the Three Michelin Star Restaurant L´ Atelier, Paris, where I worked for seven years and for three years, at La Casa de Templo, in Toledo where I was learning about the historic roots of Spanish Culture including the Sefardic Epicurism and the Moorish Arabic Cuisines.
Margaux: The Sea ?
A.L. I have always had an obsession with the sea and I enjoy fishing with my dad, cleaning, slicing and preparing fish, shellfish and seafoods of all types.
Margaux: Do you fish for your Restaurant Aponiente ?
A.L. Yes I do, however, I am also very community minded and I coach crews on ships and small fishing vessels who are working for 15 Euros hourly. I have taken 30 day fishing excursions bringing in 50 tons of wild fresh fish. I have also wanted to mention, that have sourced fish in Cádiz for 4 Euros a kilo, and in The Madrid Capital, these species could sell for 20 to 40 Euros a kilo.
Margaux: I believe you would do quite well in politics ! What exactly are you doing with Plankton ?
A.L. Firstly, Plankton groves or plantations. I filter 17.000 litres of water. The Omega 3 content is the most numerous of all edible species and / or plant life. Plankton is the cellular origin of all.
Margaux: Do you have any research investigation projects scheduled for 2019 – 2020 ?
A.L. I have been in the process of a joint venture, in which we are collaborating on a baby foodline with a Japanese Manufacturer.
Margaux: And your dream trip ?
A.L. To lose myself in the Alaskan Arctic Coast on a boat.
Margaux: Tell us about one of your books.
A.L. My first book, MAR CONTRA CORRIENTE, which signifies THE SEA AGAINST THE CURRENT, was not a run of the mill recipe book. This is a book that came from passion and fully living up to the challenges of the title.
Margaux: Tell us about your 1st recipe ..
A.L. My first recipe prepared at home was a caramel custard dessert. My mother was livid with me about the tremendous mess I made in her kitchen. I was sort of a “Dennis the Menace” !
Margaux: Last but not least, music in the kitchen while working ?
Ángel: Yes, instrumental Jazz and instrumental Flamenco. “I am also a believer in the stillness, is the power”…
Bulgarian CHEESE – THE LEGEND
Bulgarian CHEESE – THE LEGENDBy H E Comte de Bellaigue George Ganchev, Founder of Wine & Food Society
Photo Copyright: Wine & Food Society
Cheese is mentioned in the Old Testament, but the earliest records of it are even more ancient. A legend tells how a merchant took a long journey through the desert. He took with him food and milk that he poured into dried sheep’s stomach. When he decided to quench his thirst, a trickle of water flowed out of his fur, and something nasty was glowing at the bottom. Sucks, but tasty – that’s how the merchant discovered the cheese.
The truth turned out to be different. During excavations in Croatia, scientists discovered the most mature cheese in the world – at 7,200 years old, the find was found from the remains of brine cheese on rhytons and sieves used by Neolithic farmers.
East of Croatia in Bulgaria, the heart of the Balkan Peninsula, since ancient times, cheese has been made mainly of sheep and goats. What distinguishes the dairy delicacy made here by everyone else in the world and lends it a lasting taste is Lactobacillus bulgaricus. The bacterium is found freely in the nature of Bulgaria. It feeds on lactose and produces lactic acid, thanks to which the milk is stored, with the help of which the famous Bulgarian yogurt is produced.
After The World War II, under the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947, Bulgaria was obliged to pay Greece $ 45 million, the current equivalent of which exceeds half a billion dollars in reparations. By the end of 1964, Bulgaria had paid up to the last cent that huge sum in cheese and lamb. Due to this, a huge amount of Bulgarian cheese is sold on the international market as Feta. The difference between cheeses is huge in texture and taste. The original Greek Feta is made from goat’s milk and is soft.
The traditional Bulgarian cheeses are:
White brined cheese made from cows, sheep, goats, buffalo and mixed milk. It is characteristic for it that the ripening period takes place in brine (water and sea salt).
Cashcaval is a kind of yellow hard cheese that has undergone a process of pre-ripening – chederisatsia. It is made from sheep or cow’s milk or a mixture. Minimum ripening period is about 60 days. A distinction should be made between Bulgarian yellow cheese – cashcaval, and yellow cheeses known in Europe.
One of the forgotten treasures of Bulgaria, which in its authentic brew is made only at home, but has excellent taste and can last for years thanks only to salt and the local bacteria is Krokmach or Katak. It is made from sheep’s milk boiled in a water bath only in July, August and early September. Served with red roasted pepper and leaves unique memories of the palate.
Another forgotten treasure, but in the top twenty of Europe, is the Green Cheese of Cherni Vit / Central Stara Planina /. It has recently undergone its Renaissance thanks to Mr. Tsvetan Dimitrov, who revived the tradition of this one-of-a-kind delicacy. It is prepared from the milk of 2 local breeds of sheep – Teteven and Karakachan, in a certain period of the year. Thanks to one of the three European molds – Balkan and local bacteria is born something that can not be described, just to try.
